I’m a vegetarian who doesn’t really like Viennese food, so I’m sure this colours my suggestions, but here you go: Anyway, here are a few places in Vienna I enjoy and have spent a lot of time in since I moved here in October. Yet somehow, never having eaten the cookies, and finding the city slow and placid, less whirl and more time-warped isolation, the name still resonates. Since the day I mentioned I might move to Vienna, my friend Emily recited the name of the 'Viennese Whirl' cookies sold by Marks and Spencer more or less every time we spoke, only to find out on her first visit that these cookies don’t exist here or at least not by that name, and whirl anyway isn’t one of the ten German words I know.